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Basic Monitor Calibration   -   Page   2 | |
Getting the best from what you have | Rate Topic |
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Posted: Tue Jul 12th, 2016 00:21 |
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11th Post |
Robert![]() ![]()
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jk wrote:Have seen it mentioned but never used it. Yes it does! I will d/l it and give it a whirl. Attachment: Screen Shot 2016-07-12 at 06.19.25.jpg (Downloaded 21 times)
____________________ Robert. |
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Posted: Tue Jul 12th, 2016 06:27 |
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12th Post |
jk![]() ![]()
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Oh I see my Spyder 3 is on the list. It wasnt supported on the orginal page I looked at. I will maybe try a download.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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Posted: Tue Jul 12th, 2016 06:28 |
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13th Post |
jk![]() ![]()
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Eric wrote: I suppose it depends on how much printing you intend to do. Close the curtains. It concentrates the mind and also removes stray light.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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Posted: Tue Jul 12th, 2016 14:15 |
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14th Post |
Robert![]() ![]()
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I have no intention of printing any images except perhaps very rarely. The reason I want to calibrate my screen is to allow me to see the whole range of tones and to see the correct colours. The software I mentioned above doesn't seem to recognise my La-Cie sensor. So I may have a look at the basic Spyder 5 offering. From what I can gather the different levels of product only relate to the software, not the sensor, which is the same on all the Spyder 5 products. The simplest version will do all I need I think. The difference with the latest version 5 apparently is that the sensor is more accurate (sensitive?) in the darker tones, than the previous versions.
____________________ Robert. |
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Posted: Tue Jul 12th, 2016 16:55 |
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15th Post |
jk![]() ![]()
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I have been very happy with the Spyder 3 product. I will be interested to hear how you get on with the Spyder5.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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Posted: Wed Jul 13th, 2016 15:42 |
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16th Post |
Eric![]() ![]()
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jk wrote:Eric wrote:I suppose it depends on how much printing you intend to do. The viewers of my printed images were never told to sit in a specific lighting condition for correct rendition of the final print....so why should I? ![]() The problem with all this calibration lark is that unless everyone who receives your images has a similarly calibrated monitor, iPad, laptop or tv, they will ALL see something different to your screen. I've seen quite a few renditions of my artwork on printers and publishers screens while proof reading prior to going to press. In the last 10 years, I've never said "hold the press that doesn't look right!", due to colour or contrast irregularities. Forgive me for being a tad dismissive but unless the monitor you have is waaaaay out of calibration, I think it's straining at gnats. ![]()
____________________ Eric |
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Posted: Wed Jul 13th, 2016 16:29 |
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17th Post |
Robert![]() ![]()
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For iPads, iMacs and Mac Laptops I don't worry, in my experience they are all pretty well the same calibration but the plethora of monitors out there are all different. Just walk into PC World and see that almost every computer with a separate screen will be a different shade of blue, or what ever is the standard desktop hue of the day. I accept that everyone will see my images according to their calibration, or lack of it, all I can do is try to provide a 'correct' image as I see it. I seem to remember you remarked about one of my images here being 'off' a while back, can't remember the details but if my monitor is calibrated to standard colours and the white and black tones are clearly distinguishable, which they aren't at the moment, if anybody is viewing my images and not seeing what I intended, I can't do any more. When I set the white point, I expect any shades of light grey to be light grey on my monitor but in practice I don't see any difference until it's about 8% grey, it's only then I can see any difference in tone, that's almost 10%; to me that's like the high end of the sound spectrum missing in a piece of music. With sound that can be the critical bit, with 'proper' music anyway. It could make a cloud, a wedding dress or a shirt appear entirely white, when in fact there are several % of light grey tones in the image. That is what I am seeking. At present I have the equivalent of a violin with the thin strings missing!
____________________ Robert. |
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Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2016 04:28 |
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18th Post |
jk![]() ![]()
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Eric wrote: jk wrote: I think that the need to calibrate the screen is very marginal now. I have been calibrating my screens for a while now (about 14 years). I had one of the original Spyders and that worked well for CRT and TFTs. I Use that original Spyder to calibrate my Dell U2407HM (24" screen - TFT monitor) when I got it back in 2007. I have upgraded to a pair of Dell U2713HM (30" screen - LED monitor) theya re both calibrated with the Spyder 3 and are very good they match the UM2407 for colour rendering. I was sent an offer to upgrade to the Spyder 5 as the Spyder 3/4 software is no longer supported. There was all sort of BS marketing hype about the Spyder 5 software being better and supported. The old software still runs on the latest version of Mac OSX 10.11.5 and calibrates bot screens. The Spyder 3/4/5 can calibrate TFT and LED monitors. The Spyder 3 can also calibrate twin monitor systems even though Datacolor say it cant!! I cant see any reason to upgrade to a Spyder 5. Maybe if the Spyder 4 software refuses to work on a futre version of MacOS then I will upgrade. The Spyder 3 (as does the Spyder 5) has a holder for the spectrophotometer so it adjusts the calibration if the light changes. I have a set of curtains I draw if the light changes or is too bright in the room if I am editing. I dont print very often these days as most requests for print are for 50x40" prints or larger!! I am certainly not going to buy a printer that can do 40" wide prints. Prints on glossy paper should look similar (to a calibrated monitor) if the printer is well profiled but on other paper types it wil be 'different' due to the paper/canvas finish. My profiles from the Spyder 3 need little or no adjustment year on year. I used to test monthly now I do it yearly. CRTs do drift so I recommend that unless you must have one that you invest in a LED monitor. Like Eric says most people's screens on their PCs are adjusted so badly as people mess with them unecessarily adjusting to make a colour match (by eye) what they think it should be!!!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2016 06:46 |
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19th Post |
Eric![]() ![]()
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Robert wrote:
Some would say that's an improvement. ![]() I am always mystified when I see a violinist thrashing away with that singly inadequate bow. A fretsaw would be through it in seconds. ![]() I use Autocolour in Photoshop as my image reality check. Click that button AFTER doing your adjustments. If the image changes ......one of you is wrong!! ![]()
____________________ Eric |
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Posted: Thu Jul 14th, 2016 07:33 |
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20th Post |
jk![]() ![]()
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![]() Eric. Shall we go and find some stray cats for Robert. ![]()
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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