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| MC-36 remote with damaged lead - Page 2 | |
| Any suggestions for tempoary (or permanent) repair | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 27th, 2019 15:40 |
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11th Post |
jk
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Purple, white, green, yellow in one of the two sub-leads to circuit board. What colours in the other sub-lead? This diagram shows the pinouts for the 10 pin plug. 
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 28th, 2019 06:40 |
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12th Post |
GeoffR
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Robert, that looks to be a fairly simple soldering job. The wires terminate on holes through the PCB so shouldn't tax a competent technician. I'm 300 miles away or I would happily do it for you but I suspect there will be someone local who can do it, TV repair shop, if they still exist?
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| Posted: Wed Aug 28th, 2019 06:46 |
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13th Post |
Robert
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I added to my one but last post while you were making yours I think... Thanks for the diagram JK, the MC-36 is back together for now. When I open it up again I will make better photos. I think I will go with my version of #3, although it's a bit messy, it allows me to add shrink wrap to the lead as it enters the ferrule, that is a weak point as is confirmed by the existing damage. It will generally be used in cold conditions so the lead sheath is likely to crack up again. These lead inlets seem to be a source of problems on many electrical items. I need to be 'in the mood' to tackle these tasks with no distractions. Tricky job at best of times. But in my opinion it's well worth the effort. I was intending to get a Foolography smart phone remote 'Unleashed' module, which can give extended control like automating the 'Holy Grail' time-lapse control which can adjust all the exposure parameters. This is essential to allow full exposure control for 24 Hr, day/night, time-lapse photography, apart form the very latest Nikon models I think the D850 and maybe the Z's can do this but I'm not sure how well. For now the MC-36 gives me a lot more range for my night time photography. I need to understand how to get good exposures with these longer shutter speeds, reducing the ISO and closing the aperture, makes it a whole different game. A lot of testing and experimenting, wishing for plenty of cloud free, clear nights ahead.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 28th, 2019 06:59 |
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14th Post |
Robert
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GeoffR wrote:Robert, that looks to be a fairly simple soldering job. The wires terminate on holes through the PCB so shouldn't tax a competent technician. I'm 300 miles away or I would happily do it for you but I suspect there will be someone local who can do it, TV repair shop, if they still exist? Thanks Geoff, I know for a competent tech it's dead easy, I have a friend, ex RAF senior tech who could do it but he lives in North Wales, just down the road from Jeff. The nearest actual repair shop I can find is in Carlisle, best part of 100 miles. I am sure there would be some very skilled hands just down the road in Barrow at BAE Systems, but I don't know any, although I do have some contacts... I will ask around. I was reminded of my lack of dexterity just now when I tried to unlock the front door to receive a parcel from the postman (my new ISP's router), it took me several goes to get the key in the lock! Doddery old bugger! LOL
____________________ Robert. |
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