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Dis-charge / Re-charge cells , is much Too much ?   -   Page   5
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Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2018 03:52
 
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GeoffR

 

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All batteries have a drop in terminal voltage when on load, Li-ions are no different. I suspect that the EN-EL4 is quoted open circuit and the EN-EL18 on load. The difference is 2.7% well within an acceptable voltage range for the vast majority of electronic devices.

A voltage regulator may well be incorporated but the motors won't be adversely affected by changes in voltage. With a battery voltage around 11 Volts, and I suspect most of the electronics runs at 5 or 6 Volts, regulation would be required to provide the correct voltage to the electronics.

 




Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2018 04:36
 
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Robert



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I have an external AC power supply for the D3, it has output >12V. Somewhere about 13.8 Volts I think from memory. I just can't put my hands on it right now to check. ☹️

A fully charged EN EL4 having stood for a few days I checked just now reads 12.65V, another battery fresh off the charger reads 12.5V.

The actual cell voltage is determined by the chemistry of the battery. It's the capacity and flow which can vary according to design. The more active chemicals you can stuff into a given cell the more capacity the battery will have, within certain limits.

Prompted by this thread I have ordered an EN-EL4a from the eBay supplier in Preston, he answered an enquiry promptly and was helpful so I ordered one.



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Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2018 09:53
 
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novicius



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GeoffR wrote:
All batteries have a drop in terminal voltage when on load, Li-ions are no different. I suspect that the EN-EL4 is quoted open circuit and the EN-EL18 on load. The difference is 2.7% well within an acceptable voltage range for the vast majority of electronic devices.

A voltage regulator may well be incorporated but the motors won't be adversely affected by changes in voltage. With a battery voltage around 11 Volts, and I suspect most of the electronics runs at 5 or 6 Volts, regulation would be required to provide the correct voltage to the electronics.


That is what I was thinking about , thank You for the confirmation Geof.

The Electronics running on a Particular Lower Voltage , would that not be Indicated by the recommended Flash-Voltage , was it 6 Volts and No-more that Nikon specifies for their Digital camera`s , or Fried electronics would be the result...therefor rendering elder Flashes Obsolete.

Someone told me , that there is a Difference between Hot shoe output vs. Flash-nipple on a Digital camera, the flas-nipple being an El.magnetic switch capable of handling several Hundred volts..Not willing to put his sayings to the test , Risking a camera-funeral...

Could it be true nonetheless ??



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Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2018 10:17
 
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novicius



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Robert wrote:
I have an external AC power supply for the D3, it has output >12V. Somewhere about 13.8 Volts I think from memory. I just can't put my hands on it right now to check. ☹️

A fully charged EN EL4 having stood for a few days I checked just now reads 12.65V, another battery fresh off the charger reads 12.5V.

The actual cell voltage is determined by the chemistry of the battery. It's the capacity and flow which can vary according to design. The more active chemicals you can stuff into a given cell the more capacity the battery will have, within certain limits.

Prompted by this thread I have ordered an EN-EL4a from the eBay supplier in Preston, he answered an enquiry promptly and was helpful so I ordered one.


Such are my experiences as well, Alkalines fresh off the factory can even show 1.8 Volts.

" Prompted by this thread I have ordered an EN-EL4a "...was that a subtle way of saying that we are of Bad Influence to you , forcing you to part with your Hard Earned cash ...:lol:

What brand of EN_EL4a is it , and what are the specs.,..and how much incl. freight ?



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Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2018 11:55
 
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Robert



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I had been dithering for a while, I wanted to get more from the previous German supplier but they aren't expecting any more, soon. I am not keen on eBay but sometime you must. If I can I buy direct.

This thread reminded me I needed to get at least another, will use this one then if it's OK, maybe a second. That would give me five good batteries and one tired one. Enough for my needs I think.

This is a link to the eBay seller and item.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322321339566?ul_noapp=true



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Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2018 01:01
 
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GeoffR

 

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novicius wrote: GeoffR wrote:
All batteries have a drop in terminal voltage when on load, Li-ions are no different. I suspect that the EN-EL4 is quoted open circuit and the EN-EL18 on load. The difference is 2.7% well within an acceptable voltage range for the vast majority of electronic devices.

A voltage regulator may well be incorporated but the motors won't be adversely affected by changes in voltage. With a battery voltage around 11 Volts, and I suspect most of the electronics runs at 5 or 6 Volts, regulation would be required to provide the correct voltage to the electronics.


The Electronics running on a Particular Lower Voltage , would that not be Indicated by the recommended Flash-Voltage , was it 6 Volts and No-more that Nikon specifies for their Digital camera`s , or Fried electronics would be the result...therefore rendering elder Flashes Obsolete.

Someone told me , that there is a Difference between Hot shoe output vs. Flash-nipple on a Digital camera, the flas-nipple being an El.magnetic switch capable of handling several Hundred volts..Not willing to put his sayings to the test , Risking a camera-funeral...

Could it be true nonetheless ??
The flash trigger voltage is nothing to do with the supply voltage for the camera electronics. Flash trigger voltage is determined by the design of the flashgun, older flashguns trigger the flash tube supply directly, newer flashguns trigger that electronically via an isolator. The reason for camera manufacturers specifying a low voltage trigger is that there are accessory contacts in the hot shoe and putting 300V on those would fry the electronics (they are for TTL flash control etc.). This can happen when a flashgun is mounted in a charged condition, always switch off your flash before connecting it to the camera.

There is generally only one switch on the shutter with the PC socket and Hot shoe in parallel but there may also be isolators in the circuit so that an excessive voltage takes out the isolator not the shutter actuated switch.

 




Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2018 01:19
 
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Robert



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In the past we had long discussions about strobe voltage. I have a list somewhere with all the claimed voltages for different makes of flash and the specified tolerated values for various cameras.

I agree it's entirely separate from camera battery voltage.



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Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2018 04:12
 
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jk



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Camera hoteshoe or PC socket voltages are derived from the shorting of the strobe. So in reality are strobe features. Like Geoff says they are unrelated to battery in camera or strobe.

I have a link of the strobe trigger voltages
http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Most Nikons are OK up to 350v. I am told by Nikon Teck Support UK.
However best check your camera and strobe in the lists.

If you really want to be sure then get a Wein protector.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245292-REG/Wein_W990560_Safe_Sync_Hot_Shoe_to.html

I have one of the original Wein protectors and I used it with my Nikons and my old Bowens Quad 4000 as that had a high trigger voltage.



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Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2018 16:17
 
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novicius



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Gentlemen , Thank You All for this Great Advice...and especially about that WEIN shoe adapter , did not know about it`s existence.

Learn something new every day :rtfm:



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Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2018 08:00
 
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jk



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It is good to share. ;-)



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