| Moderated by: chrisbet, | Page:   1 2 3 4   |
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| Incident light meters - Page 3 | |
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| Posted: Sat May 1st, 2021 04:22 |
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21st Post |
GeoffR
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May I put this another way? The light falling on a subject is not affected by the colour, reflectivity or any other property of the subject. The light reflected by the subject is affected by all these things. An example a black cat on a dark background. The light falling on the cat suggests an exposure of 1/250 at f8 the camera suggests 1/60 at f8. Now replace the cat with a white one, the incident reading remains 1/250 at f8 the camera suggests 1/1000 at f8. Use the camera readings and you get a grey cat on a grey background or a grey cat on a very dark background. Use the incident readings and the cats come out the correct shade, black or white. The thing is that none of these exposures is "correct" but one of them will achieve the desired result.
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| Posted: Sat May 1st, 2021 05:55 |
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22nd Post |
chrisbet
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Or - as I now think I understand it - the camera thinks everything it sees should be mid grey and adjusts accordingly which is fine if you want a mid grey image! I have given up with the meter and can't run around a moving horse with an incident light meter so I take best guess and adjust manually until I get the result I want - fixing ISO at a suitable value to minimise noise and juggling aperture and exposure time depending on DOF / blur - thank goodness for digital I can take several images to choose the best from. Maybe this is where an EVF scores because you can see the result of settings continuously - at least you can with my Canon XL1S, is that true for the mirrorless cameras?
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Sat May 1st, 2021 11:28 |
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23rd Post |
jk
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chrisbet wrote:Or - as I now think I understand it - the camera thinks everything it sees should be mid grey and adjusts accordingly which is fine if you want a mid grey image! That is good. Correctly understood. But when you know which zones (Ansel Adams Zone System) each colour falls then it works great for everything.
Yes but you just need to read once as long as the light doesn't change e.g. goes behind a cloud.
Yes this is the huge advantage of a mirrorless camera with EVF that shows Exposure Preview (e.g. Nikon, Fuji, Sony, etc) and not just an electronic viewfinder as in many bridge cameras or the TFT back screen. I needs to show in WYSIWYG mode!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sat May 1st, 2021 11:29 |
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24th Post |
jk
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@Chrisbet Haha... This is why we need in line quotes in post!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sat May 1st, 2021 11:43 |
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25th Post |
chrisbet
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Ya - boo - sorted it 
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Sat May 1st, 2021 11:47 |
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26th Post |
chrisbet
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Yes but you just need to read once as long as the light doesn't change e.g. goes behind a cloud. This is a constant problem in the manege for most of the day as one half is always in sun and the other in shade.
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2021 14:15 |
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27th Post |
Iain
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Having done sports photography for so long I have got into the habit of using the grass to set my exposure if the light is consistent.
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| Posted: Sun May 2nd, 2021 16:15 |
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28th Post |
Robert
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Well my approach is boringly simple, while I am waiting for the 'main event' I bang off a few exposures at different exposure values, of the area I intend to photograph and assess the histogram to check it isn't climbing the wall at either side of the scale. Nicely in the middle. If I get it wrong I use levels in PS to put it right, although a correct exposure in the first place is better of course because correcting it in Ps means stretching the light values and loosing some range of shades.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Mon May 3rd, 2021 23:11 |
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29th Post |
novicius
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Robert wrote:Well my approach is boringly simple, while I am waiting for the 'main event' I bang off a few exposures at different exposure values, of the area I intend to photograph and assess the histogram to check it isn't climbing the wall at either side of the scale. Nicely in the middle. That`s the way I do it,..and yet , I still have the lunasix F with me...old habits persevere I guess..
____________________ Back in Danmark I do not use my equipment to make photo`s .. I take photo`s to use my equipment The better I become at photography,the better my camera gets. |
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| Posted: Tue May 4th, 2021 06:13 |
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30th Post |
GeoffR
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"I have given up with the meter and can't run around a moving horse with an incident light meter" You don't actually need to get near the horse, as long as it isn't in shadow the same light intensity will be falling 6' away or further. Just hold the meter pointing over your shoulder when you are facing the subject, don't cast your own shadow over the meter.
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| This is topic ID = 1894 Current time is 05:25 | Page: 1 2 3 4 | |
| Nikon DSLR Forums > Light, Lighting Techniques, Strobes and LEDs Forums > Lighting > Incident light meters | Top | |
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