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| Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2012 10:13 |
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11th Post |
Dave Groen
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Doug wrote: To the best of my recollection there is a secondary locking mechanism (brass) on the underside of that black lever to avoid this kind of mishap The brass mechanism locks the lever in the open position. While verifying this yesterday, I noticed a black plastic thingie on the underside of the head well camouflaged against the black structure. This newly-discovered object locks the lever in the closed position. I wish I would have known this earlier. I bought the tripod head used with no manual, if that's any excuse. The lens hit the edge of a sidewalk and then tipped such that the camera body hit soft grass. The shock forces on the lens were still transmitted through the lens mount to the camera body, though. The D800 survived unharmed. I swapped lenses and took some classic brick wall photos wide-open. Focus is consistent across the field, so the lens mount is still parallel to the sensor. No insurance. I am (usually) very careful with my gear so this is the first mishap I have had in almost 40 years of photography. Insurance premiums saved will far outweigh what I will pay for repairs. P.S. This is an iPhone photo. No critique, please. Attachment: BrokenLens.JPG (Downloaded 62 times)
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
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| Posted: Mon Sep 10th, 2012 13:08 |
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12th Post |
jk
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Dave, I think that lens flange can be glued back into place and all will be OK. The plastic used is ABS (I guess) which does not glue very well with superglue or other common glues. If anyone knows of a glue that works then I'd love to know it. The alternative will be a send back of the 24-70 to Nikon for repair which should not be too expensive job as it will not require a lens strip down. See attached screen shot from Nikon 24-70 f2.8 AFS G repair manual from that lens. The replacement part you need is filter ring - part number IK631-858 . Nikon probably wont supply directly to you but a Nikon repair centre might sell you one.  If you want a lens manual that shows the full info then PM or email me. Attachment: Screen shot 2012-09-10 at 20.11.05.jpg (Downloaded 60 times)
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 03:30 |
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13th Post |
Peter_LO
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Dave, I think the rubberized version of super glue, such as Aron Alpha's 400 series should work well although it would left some white residue. If you don't mind the appearance, you may even apply some epoxy after gluing the crack for added strength.
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 05:23 |
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14th Post |
jk
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As Peter says Aron Alpha's 400 series is a cyanoacrylate glue and it may work but leave a white residue. This can be coloured with a permanent black marker pen. I had to glue one of my hoods for my 18-70 lens as I couldnt get a replacement hood (managed to get one now from HK). What I found was that the bond was OK but not as strong as normal (other materials) when used on ABS.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 08:28 |
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15th Post |
Dave Groen
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I found some earlier test shots I did with this lens at f2.8 and recreated them. The preferred result would be that there is no difference between now and then, but of course my life can't be that easy. At 24mm it's now very good, sharper than before, although I think there may be some motion blur in the "before" shot. At 70mm it's definitely worse than before. At f8 it gets much better, better than the 70mm f2.8 "before" shot. But it's an f2/.8 lens and I should be able to use it there...
____________________ I started out with nothing and still have most of it left |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 11:07 |
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16th Post |
jk
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Dave Groen wrote: I found some earlier test shots I did with this lens at f2.8 and recreated them. The preferred result would be that there is no difference between now and then, but of course my life can't be that easy.I think you need to send it back to Nikon for a check up!
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 13:24 |
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17th Post |
Constable
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Look on the bright side ... You may have found a solution to the left focus issue! My commiserations ... Hope it won't be too expensive Ed
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 13:26 |
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18th Post |
Constable
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EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABS Ed
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| Posted: Tue Sep 11th, 2012 16:56 |
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19th Post |
jk
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Constable wrote:EvoStik PVC Pipe Weld is meant to be OK for ABS Thanks Ed. I'll see if I can find some in the DIY shops here.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 12th, 2012 01:07 |
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20th Post |
Robert
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jk wrote:Constable wrote: Try a plumbers merchants? If it's what I use it melts the surface of the plastic and causes the two surfaces to melt together. Would need to be sparing with the application, perhaps mask areas not to be glued?
____________________ Robert. |
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