| Moderated by: chrisbet, | Page: 1 2 3   |
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| 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 D AF zoom - Page 1 | |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 09:05 |
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1st Post |
chrisbet
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Any experience or views on the 28-70mm f/3.5-4.5 D AF macro zoom lens?
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 09:12 |
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2nd Post |
jk
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I have an old 35-105mm macro which I like but not this lens. From a personal perspective I have been trying to concentrate on AFS lenses to get the most out of my AF in the camera. I am very much complete in my lens a**enal.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 16:10 |
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3rd Post |
Robert
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Home again at last... (Have been house sitting.) Back at my beloved Mac, I can finally find stuff I want. My favourite lens guide by Birna R¸rslett. http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_zoom_02.html#AF28-70
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28th, 2019 18:38 |
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4th Post |
chrisbet
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Welcome home! Yes I looked at that review but wasn't certain it is the same lens as Birna doesn't mention it as a macro lens.
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 06:02 |
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5th Post |
Eric
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Perhaps stating the obvious but zooms are renowned for more variability. I tried three 17-35 f2.8 (£1500 lenses) before getting one that was the same quality across its range. And that was only a 2x zoom! The infamous 18-200mm DX lens suffered at one end or the other. Mine was soft at 200mm ...other people said theirs was soft at 18mm. What I learnt was .... 1) You have to try the lens you intend to buy to ensure THAT lens is good. 2) Avoid zooms with more than 4/5 x range, the risk of variable quality appears to increase with zoom range That said, the 28-70 range should be sufficiently far away from wide angle to avoid edge exposure drop off and distortion. And if you intend to use it on a DX camera you will be using the centre of the lens which is invariably the best. But taking Jonathan's point, trying to get AFS lenses is a better strategy. Changing your camera to a more modern model will make a significant improvement to your photos ....add AFS lenses and the camera will feel more responsive, even though the IQ of AFD lenses may be just as good.
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 07:20 |
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6th Post |
jk
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Eric wrote:Perhaps stating the obvious but zooms are renowned for more variability. I tried three 17-35 f2.8 (£1500 lenses) before getting one that was the same quality across its range. And that was only a 2x zoom! The infamous 18-200mm DX lens suffered at one end or the other. Mine was soft at 200mm ...other people said theirs was soft at 18mm. What I learnt was .... Agree with Eric. You need to try before you buy which isnt possible if you cant find it locally or it is on eBay. My reason to move to AFS for any new lenses is because. I love my 85 f1.4 but it is only AFD. Yes I know there is now an AFS version but it is very expensive and I already have the AFD version which is very good.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 13:10 |
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7th Post |
Robert
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chrisbet wrote:Welcome home! Same focal length, same aperture, to Birna the 'macro' feature is meaningless because it isn't a macro lens. The macro term is grossly misused, macro means the lens magnifies the subject by more than 1:1 to the actual size on the film or sensor. Even the 'proper' Nikkor Micro lenses only go to 1:1, no more without extension tubes or extra lenses to increase the magnification. Many popular lenses are called macro but should be called close up or micro.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 16:07 |
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8th Post |
chrisbet
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It does seem a bit odd, since the "macro" setting seems just to be an extension of the distance scale - unless that last rotation moves a different part of the lens to increase the magnification. Nikon say the ratio is 1:4.4 for that lens, but I presume that gives the same result as a 1:3 on a APS-C sensor? I guess the only thing to do is see what results it produces!
____________________ If it is broken it was probably me .... |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 29th, 2019 17:11 |
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9th Post |
Robert
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I'm not truly technically expert in this but my understanding from reading many articles and posts on close up photography by technically proficient photographers is that 1:1 ratio is a pure lens process. If you photographed a measuring ruler at 1:1 the image on the sensor or film would be exact same size as the original measuring ruler, the image projected onto the imaging medium would be identical in size at both the subject and the capture point, irrespective of the sensor (or film) size. Obviously when displayed on a screen or printed from a negative the resulting image could be much bigger than the original article. I suspect that's what an advocate of the term macro, for less than 1:1 might argue but the pure meaning of macro is 1:1 or greater at the sensor, not the print. As for the 'macro' setting on a lens, I suspect there is a close range correction mechanism, which moved certain elements to allow closer focus. Some lenses have a distinct change in the focus movement when they enter their 'macro' mode.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Tue Jul 2nd, 2019 02:14 |
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10th Post |
Gilbert Sandberg
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Chris, My personal views: -this seems to be an older compact / plastic era lens, according to Roland Vink's list the last ones were made in 1999. -the so-called macro feature is quite useless, I would rather use any real Micro-Nikkor lens. Conclusion: If the lens were for free, I might like to try it, but not spend any real money on it. Regards, Gilbert.
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