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| Fuji XE1 IR - Page 5 | |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 17th, 2014 04:22 |
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41st Post |
jk
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I just noticed that you said in your post#35 that the IR gallery images were from XT1. That means you used an R72 on the lens. Is that correct or did you mean XE1?
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 17th, 2014 06:52 |
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42nd Post |
Eric
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jk wrote:Looks like you need to test the 14mm and 35mm primes. ....and the 18mm . 
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 17th, 2014 11:24 |
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43rd Post |
jk
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I dont think the 18mm is that wide after the 14mm. Also I didnt say that I also had the Samyang 8mm in Fuji X fit. Manual focus only but with it being so wide it is easy to focus and use f8 and hyperfocal infinity and 3m all in focus. If you test the 18mm and want it then you can have my one Mint condition. Maybe even swap for your D200 IR. PM me if you are interested.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Tue Jun 17th, 2014 11:33 |
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44th Post |
Eric
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jk wrote:I just noticed that you said in your post#35 that the IR gallery images were from XT1. Sorry Jonathan, missed this post....typo.... should be XE 1. Can you correct it, so as not to confuse anyone else?
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 18th, 2014 02:03 |
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45th Post |
jk
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Well I would be very pleased with those new images but then again I dont have your IR post processing skills. Mine never have the sky colour and rendering that you achieve. :-(
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 18th, 2014 03:50 |
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46th Post |
Eric
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jk wrote:Well I would be very pleased with those new images but then again I dont have your IR post processing skills. Mine never have the sky colour and rendering that you achieve. :-( It's really not that involved. I set the white and black point using Levels. I then use an action that 'sharpens' by increasing contrast. At this point I either bin the image for lying about its potential or look at extraneous colour..... Firstly remove all unwanted colour. Ideally I like to only have yellows and maybe some reds in the image. So I go to Hue Sat and INCREASE THE LIGHTNESS of all the channels except yellow and red. (Don't desaturated as it makes those areas go grey.) With a narrower band of colours available you get a purer flip eg just yellows to blues. So if the image recommends a specific treatment eg blue sky, brown road...I create a second layer and do the channel mix swop on the blue and red channels. Then erase the areas on the blue top layer to reveal the brown bottom layer parts. After flattening the layers I go to Hue Sat and whack the saturation to maximum. This shows any areas in the image that may have retained spurious colour casts. Then after cancelling this change I just use the sponge tool to desat those spurious color areas AND THEN use the dodge tool on the same areas to lighten them (same reason as the earlier comment). For me it's all about getting the whites white, the blacks black and leaving colour in areas that recommend it. But the biggest step is only taking images that have a strong non IR interest factor. Too much shrubbery, grass or trees just swamps the eye...whether green or white. 
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20th, 2014 10:13 |
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47th Post |
Eric
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I've added another 6 images to the gallery for those interested, which hopefully show the good side of the Fuji XE1 (as opposed to some X series lenses hotspots). Most of these have had the hotspot masked or diminished.
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2014 10:43 |
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48th Post |
Eric
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Having already briefed Mr Knights on this subject I thought I had better share this snippet with other potential Fuji IR users. As mentioned already, the 18-55 has a severe hotspot throughout the widest part of its range rendering it useless for IR. Today I discovered the 10-24 ALSO has a severe hotspot...but throughout is range (not surpringinly continuing the effect seen in wider end of the 18-55 lens) The 14mm prime DOESN'T have a hotspot as JK discovered. But the cheapo 16-50 'kit' lens ALSO DOESN'T have a hotspot...at least not up to f8. Beyond f8 there is a faint central fog which may be undiscernable to many eyes, and easily adjusted if required. So I got oneof these lenses at a good knock down price and will publish some shots with it in due course. It's interesting that the problem occurs in the 'quality' wide zooms but not the cheap ones, longer zooms or primes? Obviously to do with lens construction, but what exactly, can't say. 
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2014 14:04 |
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49th Post |
jk
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I look forward to seeing the IR results from your XE1 with the 16-50. Well done on the cheap lens acquisition. Looks like you have made a good find and purchase. BTW: It is Dr Knights!!! 
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Tue Jul 1st, 2014 16:51 |
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50th Post |
Eric
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jk wrote:I look forward to seeing the IR results from your XE1 with the 16-50. I was talking about Mr Knights who lives at no. 27.
____________________ Eric |
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