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| d7100 help needed - Page 1 | |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 16th, 2013 17:49 |
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1st Post |
blackfox
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i,m having problems with exposure compensation for birds in flight with the 7100 ,i use a 300mm f4 lens and usually with either a 1.4 or 1.7 tc ,i have used this lens combo very successfully with both the d7000 and d300s so its not the lens or combo ,with the two latter cameras when taking b.i.f it was usually just a case of dialling in a couple of positive bars and the exposure would come out virtually perfect . however myself and i might add several friends with the same rig set up cannot seem to get exposure compensation right .with most pics coming out either under or over exposed between us we have tried all metering modes ,matrix ,spot,partial etc nothing seems to work consistently ,i am starting to feel that its a design fault . for ground level birds /insects/butterflies i cannot fault the camera its perfection as soon as the sky is included i want to throw it into the nearest hedge .help please someone before i sell it in temper
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 01:10 |
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2nd Post |
Robert
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Take control, use Manual. The sky is fairly consistent in brightness but less important than the bird, expose a stop or two over to capture the bird which should also be consistently lit from the ambient light. Take a test exposure or two and find the best exposure with the Histogram. My guess is that once you hit the correct setting that will be right for the entire session unless it's dawn or sunset. Check out the exposure settings for successful photographs in similar conditions, use them as a starting point. Use NEF, that gives you room for fine adjustment later. Sounds like you have found the Achilles heel of the D7100. Have fun!
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 02:46 |
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3rd Post |
Gilbert Sandberg
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B, re: tried all metering modes Apparently you have not tried Manual exposure metering (the M of PSAM). Regards, Gilbert
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 05:23 |
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4th Post |
blackfox
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i will follow this through ,and see if manual metering helps,the trouble with b.i.f especially raptors is they appear and are then gone so the time to experiment with different settings is quickly gone .as stated its never been a problem with previous nikons and i,m not a newbie on a learning curve having a more than good collection behind me . just this camera is not following the norm ,and it seems common with the D7100 from feedback from other users
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 06:49 |
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5th Post |
Robert
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Hi Jeff, I realise you have taken several good pix of birds and you have a strong background in photography but you did ask. Given you seem to have tried most conventional routes my suggestion was the best I could come up with. There other suggestions available but they come with a very heavy price tag... Once you get used to Manual I would say it's probably better the any other mode, after all the ambient light doesn't change much and that is all that matters, an incident light meter or take an exposure from a grey board or even grass would get you into the ball park. A small object with a large bright background is a challenge for any exposure system. Have you tried looking through your best pix and checking out the exposures? I would bet there won't be a big difference between them except for extreme lighting conditions.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 07:05 |
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6th Post |
Eric
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blackfox wrote:i,m having problems with exposure compensation for birds in flight with the 7100 ,i use a 300mm f4 lens and usually with either a 1.4 or 1.7 tc ,i have used this lens combo very successfully with both the d7000 and d300s so its not the lens or combo ,with the two latter cameras when taking b.i.f it was usually just a case of dialling in a couple of positive bars and the exposure would come out virtually perfect . Has the D7100 got the low pass filter removed? Have you tried using a polarising filter?
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 08:10 |
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7th Post |
blackfox
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its got the anti-aliasing one removed eric ,sold my polarisers the other week due to lack of use (might have been a silly move) . rob its not a case of looking through old pics for settings as i have virtually none of b.i.f with this camera i like ..as i said its not just me the concensus is coming in not to use matrix though so thats one part settled . one thing puzzles me if your taking a manual reading of the sky it will surely meter for that ,yes/no . .you will then still need to dial in a positive exposure compensation for when a bird flies through that sky yes/no. it will STILL be guesswork on how much positive compensation to dial in yes/no so unless my thought process is entirely wrong its still pure guesswork and i'm back to square one 
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 09:37 |
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8th Post |
Eric
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blackfox wrote:its got the anti-aliasing one removed eric ,sold my polarisers the other week due to lack of use (might have been a silly move) . I suspect the manual suggestion was that you meter off a similarly lit foreground object and fix that exp for the bird. Of course if the bird isn't front lit, like your target object, it still will need exp comp. I can't believe with all your experience you are doing anything wrong. It must be the cameras response to high key lighting...that's why I question the filtration. I wonder if changing the cameras contrast or film simulation setting might yield better results? Coincidentally, I was recently shooting with the D7000 and my Fuji XE up high (3000m) above the snow line. The D7000 struggled to get exposure right with snowy mountain scenes. The Fuji exposures were perfect. So much so, I have already put on hold the idea of selling the Fuji system and will persevere with its ergonomic and tardiness issues and maybe buy the longer lens....so I don't need to take the D7000 in these situations. Not sure if that is just a coincidence or this lighting situation is the Achilles heal of the D7000 and D7100?
____________________ Eric |
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 09:41 |
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9th Post |
jk
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Jeff, what are the camera settings you would use normally (on another Nikon) and get good results ? For me I would use; Aperture Priority EV ccompensation +1.3 or +1.7 (shooting for detail in bird body against a brigt sky) AF is your preference but I tend to use central point or 51 points. Min shutter speed of 1/500 with AutoISO And shooting in RAW Dont know if this helps. Are you sure that there isn't some rogue thing like bracketing that is killing you. This happened on my D300 and drove me nuts on holiday until I could get home and read the manual.
____________________ Still learning after all these years! https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none |
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| Posted: Sat Aug 17th, 2013 09:45 |
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10th Post |
Robert
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blackfox wrote:
Doesn't matter what camera you have used the exposure on a given day with that lens setup should be a good starting point.
Never said take meter reading of sky, You need an ambient light reading, either use a traditional incident light metre or take a reading off grass, your hand or maybe a grey board.
With an incident light reading, NO. With Manual exposure you don't need to add compensation, THAT is the point.
YES, but when you get the hang of it it will be far more controllable and predictable. Using TTL metering with a tiny object against a bright sky is no more than a lottery, prone to error, the odds are against you.
In my opinion you need to go back to basics. The selectivity of the metering system isn't intelligent/fast enough to cope with a tiny dark (unlit) object (bird) against a bright sky. The metre reading you need to expose the bird correctly will be very close to the exposure you need for somebody's face 6 feet away in the same direction as your subject. Try it...
____________________ Robert. |
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