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Nikkor 14 - 24 f2.8 AF - S........SUCCES !!!   -   Page   2
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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 13:31
 
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jk



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Now you have the vinyl in place you could acid etch the Nikon out/in. Eithe just put acid into the Nikon word or fill it with wax and then acid etch the surrounding space after removing the vinyl.

For me I would just etch the Nikon word area.



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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 14:01
 
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Robert



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What finish would the acid create and what acid to use?

I do remember many years ago putting an aluminium motorcycle exhaust in caustic soda and it turned black! The owner wasn't best pleased... it took me ages to polish it back to silver colour.



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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 14:10
 
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jk



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Hydrochloric (HCl) but Sulphuric (H2SO4) battery acid would probably also work.
Finish would be matt possibly with some pitting.

You would need to experiment with acid strength as lower concentration gives you better control and takes longer.



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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 22:56
 
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novicius



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Robert wrote:
My Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D was dropped on the floor while attached to my D3, it smashed the front plastic on the lens surround where the filter screws in.

Lens still worked but started to jam the focus. If shaken in a certain way it would stop jamming the focus. I guessed a screw had sheared when it was dropped. I made a hole in the front plastic, shook the lens about and hey presto! a broken screw dropped out. Jamming stoped.

Does your lens rattle?

I have now made a new front for the Nikkor, with integral lens shade, bit like the 16mm fisheye.


Robert , I am Afraid,Very Afraid that You`ve put yer finger on the Sore Spot....

When I shake the lens,there`s a " clacking " sound coming from it....that does Not abode well...funny thing is,when shaking while zooming simultanously, that zoom ring moves much easier...`tho as it is difficult to see,it seems as if the rear lens-assembly is slightly out of center..

Tho` I have an electro-mechano background,I do not have the required skill/knowledge to bargain with it..

This U-tube vid shows the innards of the 14-24...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R9I-BlD5m0&t=3s

Slowed down to 0.25 motion, shows what a Complicated Affair it is..

Maybe I`ll work up the courage...but I dunno..

What a Fantastic job You did with that 20 f2.8 ...:applause:



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Posted: Fri Jan 4th, 2019 23:04
 
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novicius



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Robert wrote:
novicius wrote:
Eric wrote:
Great news!
Was the D2X witnessing this resurrection and is IT now also playing nicely?


The D2Xs is still on the test bench sans Main / Clock batteries , mirror still in the "Up" position....I`ll give it a few more days, if it it`s still stubborn then I will negotiate with ACS.


This seems VERY odd, when cleaning sensor getting the mirror to stay up is obviously vital, but if power is removed, shutter will close and mirror will fall. SO, WHY is the mirror staying up, WITHOUT power???

It can't (normally) do that. o.O

Have you tried selecting fast-continuous shutter or all the other options like single, mirror up and whatever other modes the D2Xs has.

The mechanism appears to function, just the wrong way... Open when it should be closed.


Yes,Exactly my thoughts ,..I have tried the things You mentioned and will try again, but it seems to be a SoftWare issue...

According to Nikon ,there are NO upgrades for the D2xS...only for D2X...but I doubt if that can be used.



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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 03:06
 
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Robert



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novicius wrote:


Robert , I am Afraid,Very Afraid that You`ve put yer finger on the Sore Spot....

When I shake the lens,there`s a " clacking " sound coming from it....that does Not abode well...funny thing is,when shaking while zooming simultanously, that zoom ring moves much easier...`tho as it is difficult to see,it seems as if the rear lens-assembly is slightly out of center..


Thank you, I really enjoyed fixing up the 20mm. I was able to put my own stamp on it.

As for your lens, it sounds like it's been dropped, possibly the camera took the impact but perhaps survived, maybe a D3? The lens was less fortunate.

I would still contact ACS and ask David his view, they do (did) have lenses which they cannibalise so may be able to do a repair without costing too much, it may only be a sheared screw? In which case it could be a relatively simple repair.



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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 05:08
 
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novicius



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Yes, it could very well be....

As per the D2xS ,...I was wondering,since there`s No software upgrade for it, could it be that the upgrade for the X is perhaps Usable as a re-install for the S ??..

Looking at the difference between the X ( firmware )upgrade and the S firmware would be the better LCD and Screen/Viewfinder which is Hardware , I have been trying to find info about this but to No avail...

Perhaps it is time to get in touch with ACS :-)



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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2019 07:47
 
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Robert



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The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing.

I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable.



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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2019 22:42
 
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novicius



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Robert wrote:
The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing.

I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable.


I`M Afraid that You`re Correct....

Funny thing about the 14-24....it seems to be at its " Sharpest " there where it Jams at 16mm focal length setting...curious that..

Anyone notice that with a Zoom...Any Zoom..??..



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Posted: Mon Jan 7th, 2019 03:22
 
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Robert



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novicius wrote:
Robert wrote:
The D2x issue could be nothing more than a broken spring or jammed trip lever in the mirror actuation mechanism but it's way too delicate in there to meddle unless you know exactly what you are doing.

I have adjusted AF with screws, D200 I think but experience is called for with your problem, it would be very easy to make it unrepairable.


I`M Afraid that You`re Correct....

Funny thing about the 14-24....it seems to be at its " Sharpest " there where it Jams at 16mm focal length setting...curious that..

Anyone notice that with a Zoom...Any Zoom..??..


To me that would suggest a moving part is being pushed into it's correct position in a support slide at the tight point but the support is broken or displaced elsewhere along it's length, therefore not correctly aligned.

Does it rattle when the tight point is reached? If not that might confirm my theory. I might be inclined to leave it in the tight point, especially if you intend to post it...

Some lenses are incredibly frail in their construction, using all sorts of ways to squeeze the complex mechanism into a tiny space. The 25-50 I had was very sharp but suffered a drop while on my D1, the D1 was fine of course!

I opened up the lens and the innards slid on three small rods which were held in position with sticky tape. The impact from being dropped, had torn two of the rods from their flimsy supports. That exhibited the same 'slack' and 'tight' feel when zooming and focusing. I liked that lens, it was small and very sharp, with good contrast but although it did improve it's behaviour, I got rid during one of my equipment culls.



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