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Posted: Thu May 5th, 2016 11:58
 
11th Post
Jadoon

 

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Location: Islamabad, Pakistan
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 Eric wrote:
Jadoon
Welcome.

I did a lot of product photography some years back....mainly tabletop items like shoes, electrical equipment, ornaments, food, brass and stainless components. The choice of camera is not THAT important provided it is sat on a sturdy tripod. Product photography is more about lighting. So having good lights, reflectors are more important.

The same is true about lens choice. For tabletop items where you are working close, it is more common to use small fstops to give more depth of field. ( unless you deliberately need to restrict depth of field for artistic effect.) So most lenses, even zooms, will give good results at say..f8.

I've used the D7000... It's a nice camera. But it's no better than the lesser Nikon cameras like the D5500 and D3300 models. What is sometimes useful in studio is a tilting screen. It enables you to shoot more easily, at lower or higher angles as product may require. You can also get tighter focus using an enlarged rear screen.

As a lens recommendation I would go for the 18-105 lens. You will be surprised how in studio having a longer lens becomes useful. It gets you away from light stands, it diminishes your reflection in shiny objects. I used to shoot brass door handles with a 300mm lens from across the studio...where I was hidden in darkness.

I hope that gives you some help.

Thanks Eric

Yes you are right the light is the key factor. I have not only done some home work on it, but also on photographic tent etc etc.
Just one more thing, about image Stabilization, in D7000 or D5500, no image stabilization, does it matters? I did not check it yet but I guess there will be lens stabilization on a 18-140mm lens. So any suggestions.
Regards
 




Posted: Thu May 5th, 2016 12:54
 
12th Post
Robert



Joined: Sun Apr 1st, 2012
Location: South Lakeland, UK
Posts: 4066
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 Hi Jadoon, Welcome to the forum.

With close up photography and especially with a tripod mounted camera, which is essential in my opinion, the VR, or image stabilisation does not work, in fact using VR on a tripod can actually induce vibration in the lens. Likewise I don't use AF in these circumstances, far better to place the focal point where YOU want it rather than where the AF thinks it should be.

I am a great fan of the 18-105 lens, it's very sharp for a DX lens and I find it a very useful range for general photography. Mine is almost always attached to my D3100.



____________________
Robert.
 




Posted: Thu May 5th, 2016 13:21
 
13th Post
Gilbert Sandberg

 

Joined: Mon Apr 16th, 2012
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 196
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 Jadoon,
re: IS
Unlike some other brands, Nikon builds VR (Image stabilising) into some lenses, not in the camera.
One remark: It may be helpful to some/sometimes, but is no guarantee for un-moved pictures!
I read recently of a (beginner-) user who complained that shots amde with something like an 800 mm lens were not sharp at a shutter speed of 1/60, no one is his/her right mind would even try.
Regards,
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 06:08
 
14th Post
Eric



Joined: Wed Apr 18th, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 4529
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 Jadoon wrote:
Eric wrote:
Jadoon
Welcome.

I did a lot of product photography some years back....mainly tabletop items like shoes, electrical equipment, ornaments, food, brass and stainless components. The choice of camera is not THAT important provided it is sat on a sturdy tripod. Product photography is more about lighting. So having good lights, reflectors are more important.

The same is true about lens choice. For tabletop items where you are working close, it is more common to use small fstops to give more depth of field. ( unless you deliberately need to restrict depth of field for artistic effect.) So most lenses, even zooms, will give good results at say..f8.

I've used the D7000... It's a nice camera. But it's no better than the lesser Nikon cameras like the D5500 and D3300 models. What is sometimes useful in studio is a tilting screen. It enables you to shoot more easily, at lower or higher angles as product may require. You can also get tighter focus using an enlarged rear screen.

As a lens recommendation I would go for the 18-105 lens. You will be surprised how in studio having a longer lens becomes useful. It gets you away from light stands, it diminishes your reflection in shiny objects. I used to shoot brass door handles with a 300mm lens from across the studio...where I was hidden in darkness.

I hope that gives you some help.

Thanks Eric

Yes you are right the light is the key factor. I have not only done some home work on it, but also on photographic tent etc etc.
Just one more thing, about image Stabilization, in D7000 or D5500, no image stabilization, does it matters? I did not check it yet but I guess there will be lens stabilization on a 18-140mm lens. So any suggestions.
Regards

As Robert and Gilbert have said, VR isn't the complete answer. Apart from the fact that VR shouldn't be used with a tripod as it causes vibration, it's a fact that VR doesn't work as well, if at all, on close subjects. I believe Nikon say at less than 1metre, VR is less effective. Some table top photography might be that close, I certainly found that VR on the 105 MACRO lens was useless!

I still believe that a tripod is better than a monopod....a monopod is better than VR. However, with the high ISO capabilities of newer Nikons, there should be no reason why when hand holding, you cannot select a shutter speed fast enough to remove camera shake and still get good images.



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Eric
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 06:37
 
15th Post
Jadoon

 

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 Thanks indeed! all of you.

Regards
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 08:56
 
16th Post
jk



Joined: Sun Apr 1st, 2012
Location: Carthew, Cornwall, United Kingdom
Posts: 6965
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 I hope you have all the information that you need to make a good purchase.
If you need more help in the future then just ask.



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Still learning after all these years!
https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 11:05
 
17th Post
Jadoon

 

Joined: Tue May 3rd, 2016
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 jk wrote:
I hope you have all the information that you need to make a good purchase.
If you need more help in the future then just ask.

Yes, I have all information.
Today I went to local Nikon distributor, there is a bundle offer which is as follow:

Option-1:
D5500 with kit lens(18-55mm)+Lens(AF-S DX 55-200mm f4-5.6G ED VR II) for $715
One Year Warranty.

Option-2:
If I go for (without kit lens), that is D5500 Body+ 18-140mm ("f"-I don't remember now), then it will be as follows:
    $515+$238=$753 (it includes brand new lens with warranty but extracted from a kit lens
    $515+$295=$810 it includes the lens with warranty not extracted from kit

So what should I go for option-1 or option-2?
if in case option-2 then part #1 or #2.

(one more thing if I go for D5500+kit lens (18-55mm) it will be $590)

Thanks and Regards
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 12:12
 
18th Post
Eric



Joined: Wed Apr 18th, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 4529
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 Jadoon wrote:
jk wrote:
I hope you have all the information that you need to make a good purchase.
If you need more help in the future then just ask.

Yes, I have all information.
Today I went to local Nikon distributor, there is a bundle offer which is as follow:

Option-1:
D5500 with kit lens(18-55mm)+Lens(AF-S DX 55-200mm f4-5.6G ED VR II) for $715
One Year Warranty.

Option-2:
If I go for (without kit lens), that is D5500 Body+ 18-140mm ("f"-I don't remember now), then it will be as follows:
    $515+$238=$753 (it includes brand new lens with warranty but extracted from a kit lens
    $515+$295=$810 it includes the lens with warranty not extracted from kit

So what should I go for option-1 or option-2?
if in case option-2 then part #1 or #2.

(one more thing if I go for D5500+kit lens (18-55mm) it will be $590)

Thanks and Regards



I would go for option 1. The 55-200 is quite a good lens. Many people use that lens on the camera most of the time. The 18-55 can suffer from a bit of edge distortion at 18mm but as long as you don't fill the frame you can crop the edges. The 18-105 for some reason is much better.
For studio work you may also find the 55-200 more useful...you just have to stand a bit further back from the subject. For this reason it's also good for portraits...you aren't right in the face of the sitter, which can make them intimidated and assume stiff facial expressions.

Go for it!
:thumbs:

As a further point....try reading Ken Rockwells review of the D5500 here...

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d5500.htm#rex

Although I don't particularly like Ken Rockwell style or reporting approach, he does know a thing or two about Nikon cameras.



____________________
Eric
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 12:43
 
19th Post
jk



Joined: Sun Apr 1st, 2012
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Posts: 6965
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 The D5300 is a very good alternative and should be cheaper than the D5500.

Of your options I would go for the Option 1.



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Still learning after all these years!
https://nikondslr.uk/gallery_view.php?user=2&folderid=none
 




Posted: Fri May 6th, 2016 13:43
 
20th Post
Eric



Joined: Wed Apr 18th, 2012
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 4529
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 jk wrote:
The D5300 is a very good alternative and should be cheaper than the D5500.

Of your options I would go for the Option 1.

That's true. If the D5300 is an option, it's functionally the same!

http://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=nikon_d5300&products=nikon_d5500



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Eric
 

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