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When will the D400 arrive? - Page 6

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Posted: Sat Apr 28th, 2012 15:10

51^st Post

theman1050

Joined:	Sat Apr 14th, 2012
Location:
Posts:	21
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Squarerigger wrote:
Robert wrote:
jk wrote:
Robert wrote:
theman1050 wrote:
I shot my school's annual cardboard boat race today and I killed it

What the D7000? Water damage, dropped or what, is it repairable?

Tried your link but got nowhere...

:lol:

The camera is OK, he killed the event with the camera!

It seems to have performed well but on a sunny day a little fill-in flash might be also needed to reduce the blown highlights.
Never heard of that before??? :baffled: :doh:

This was a fun read. Obviously theman1050 is much younger than some of us on the site - I won't mention names. Sometimes I need an interpreter when listening to conversations involving my sons and their families. They have an entirely new language they communicate with.
:rtfm:

Haha it was fun to see the gap. I'm still only a freshman in college (although not for long) for those who were curious.

Posted: Sat Apr 28th, 2012 17:55

52^nd Post

Joined:	Sun Apr 1st, 2012
Location:	Carthew, Cornwall, United Kingdom
Posts:	6987
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theman1050 wrote:
Robert wrote:
theman1050 wrote:
I shot my school's annual cardboard boat race today and I killed it

What the D7000? Water damage, dropped or what, is it repairable?

Sorry about the slang there haha.

Here is the Google Photos link: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107856959498960681285/albums/5736510363983861809

A fill flash would have been nice-but I would have lost some time while it recycles (at least on the on camera flash)

That was only a passing comment. Even with a fast flash. It can slow the shooting rate down especially wih sports.
I love the faster shutter speed and he freezing of the water.

Barring any damages to my D7000, I'll be sticking with it for some time. No need to upgrade (FX is nice, but not pertinent) if I'm getting results like this.[url][/url]

DX format works better for sports as you dont need to use super-telephotos.
The 70-300 VR is a great lens.

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Posted: Sat Apr 28th, 2012 20:45

53^rd Post

theman1050

Joined:	Sat Apr 14th, 2012
Location:
Posts:	21
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jk wrote:
theman1050 wrote:
Robert wrote:
theman1050 wrote:
I shot my school's annual cardboard boat race today and I killed it

What the D7000? Water damage, dropped or what, is it repairable?

Sorry about the slang there haha.

Here is the Google Photos link: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/107856959498960681285/albums/5736510363983861809

A fill flash would have been nice-but I would have lost some time while it recycles (at least on the on camera flash)

That was only a passing comment. Even with a fast flash. It can slow the shooting rate down especially wih sports.
I love the faster shutter speed and he freezing of the water.

Barring any damages to my D7000, I'll be sticking with it for some time. No need to upgrade (FX is nice, but not pertinent) if I'm getting results like this.[url][/url]

DX format works better for sports as you dont need to use super-telephotos.
The 70-300 VR is a great lens.

True that!

Posted: Sat Apr 28th, 2012 21:57

54^th Post

Doug

Joined:	Sun Apr 8th, 2012
Location:	Adelaide, Australia
Posts:	187
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Next time you have a similar situation play around with keeping the shutter and aperture, but drop the iso by 3 to 6 clicks (1 to 2 stops) use raw, and check for minimal flashing highlights on the review screen (highlights must be turned on in menu>playback>display settings)

You can then easily lift detail out of the shadows in Lightroom, aperture etc. (caution: you must retain some flashing highlights or risk burying your shadow detail and generating noise when you attempt to recover this detail - do a duckduckgo search (non creepy google alternative) for 'shooting to the right' for more detailed explanations

Instead of shooting Raw try making sure that d-lighting is on and experiment with varying the ISO until you control the highlights effectively
Base your exposure on the sunny 16 rule to get a starting point
Sunny 16 indicates correct exposure as f16, 1250ISO, 1/1250
You have adjusted your aperture by six clicks to f8 and to get those highlights back you must increase shutter speed or reduce ISO resulting in something like;
f8, 1250ISO, 1/5000
OR
f8, 320ISO, 1/1250
OR
F8, 640ISO, 1/2500

(I haven't attempted to check the metadata, but I suspect your shot above is at a shutter speed far l owner than 1/5000 resulting in the extensive highlight clipping in the image)

Using any of these three variations on 'sunny 16' the highlights should be close to holding detail and d-lighting should lift those shadows to give more of a fill effect

I would look to avoid flashing highlights on the face where it is exposed to the sun, but permit it to occur on the cap, arms, background etc.

Btw I'm not sure fill flash would help
With this subject distance fill flash would force a low shutter speed, changing the image dynamics somewhat (high speed flash sync will let you keep your shutter speed, but would require your flash to be within a cople of meters of your subject (and that's with an external sbxxx flash. - the built in flash would be useless))

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