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| Vivitar 285 voltage - is it safe - Page 1 | |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2012 12:23 |
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1st Post |
PRSS
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Hello everybody I have an old Vivitar 285 Flash which is still working fine. Can I use this on my Nikon D5100 SLR? I checked the voltage as described in a link given by one of the forum members and found out that it is 9 Volts. Is this safe for a digital SLR? Can I use this on my Nikon D5100? Thanks in advance PRSS
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2012 14:29 |
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2nd Post |
Gilbert Sandberg
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PRSS, If you are confident (or measured it yourself) 9 volts should be OK. The main scare is for units that have over 200 Volts on the Sync cable. Regards, Gilbert
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2012 15:18 |
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3rd Post |
Robert
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If it IS 9 volts then it should be OK, Measuring the voltage isn't completely straightforward, but if you are using a good digital meter then that may be OK. Perhaps a secondary question, If you note the comments on the website I gave you, Vivitar say the *earlier* version of the gun can output much higher and damaging voltages. Can you see on the flashgun any markings which suggest it is the early version? If it is marked HV that seems to suggest it's the later version with the lower voltage.  The fact that no problems have arisen with the camera so far is not a guarantee that all is well. I don't wish to seem to be a prophet of doom but this is a grey area and I would take the cautious route. Putting it in blunt terms, which is cheaper, a camera body or a flashgun?
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2012 19:11 |
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4th Post |
PRSS
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Hello Robert Thanks for the reply. My Vivitar 285 does not have any markings like HV. I had a very senior photographer measure the voltage. It was 9 on his digital meter. I also had my electrician measure the voltage on his digital meter and it read 10.5 Please let me know ehat is the maximum voltage that the D5100 can withstand? or any digital camera. If there are any secon doubts on it I shall be better off using a slave unit. Waiting for reply PRSS
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| Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2012 08:29 |
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5th Post |
jk
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Yes I'd say that 9v is good. I discussed this with Nikon UK Tech Supports as my Bowens Quad 4000 units are said to have sync voltages up to 250v DC. Nikon said that they had tested to 50v but did not recommend using with my Bowens units without some sort of protection circuit for the camera. I have a Wein Flash Surge protector installed if I use a direct connection but normally I use a IR or wireless sync.
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| Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2012 09:13 |
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6th Post |
Doug
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jk wrote:Yes I'd say that 9v is good. Nikon are stupid. Imagine only testing to 50v yet printing the following sentence in the instruction book of every DSLR they have ever made "Use only Nikon flash units. Negative voltages or voltages over 250 V applied to the accessory shoe could not only prevent normal operation, but damage the sync circuitry of the camera or flash. Before using a Nikon flash unit not listed in this section, contact a Nikon-authorized service representative for more information."  BTW the chart linked to by Robert is very generic in it's recommendations and states 'your call' on some fairly low voltages This is due to some cameras having a rumoured capability of only 6v (Canon) I actually expect that Canon are just as robust as Nikon, but since the myth exists, is perpetuated at every opportunity by Canon's representatives and users and since Canon, to my knowledge, have never made public an actual rating then the phrase 'Your Call' is justified (I imagine it's more a case of people who should know making stuff up because they don't)
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2012 01:40 |
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7th Post |
PRSS
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Thanks to every body, I have one last question. Nikon says " Negative voltages or voltages over 250 V applied to the accessory shoe could not only prevent normal operation, but damage the sync circuitry of the camera or flash." As per Nikon's statement are the Nikon DSLRs withstand upto 250V from flash units? I have another National compact old flash which shows 200V. From what Nikon says I could use this also? Dear everybody, I really want to be safe on this as I don't want to spoil my new DSLR. Waiting for reply PRSS
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2012 02:42 |
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8th Post |
Robert
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PRSS, I wouldn't use either flashgun, despite Doug's assertion that the Nikon spec's say 250 Volts and your measurements giving 9 and 200 Volts respectively. Why? 1, The circuitry is old, and may be 'leaky', I will explain in 2. 2, In order for a flash to fire, a high voltage (between 1,000 and 4,000 Volts) is 'flashed' across the tube exciting the xenon gas inside which is then energised for as long as the flash gun settings allow it to create an intense light. You can liken this high voltage energiser to a spark in a cars engine. If you look at the flash tube you will see it is slightly yellow, that is a gold coating which conducts the high energy charge over the tube to initiate the flash. What you are measuring with your test probes is the battery charge level, like perhaps the cars battery which would be 12 Volts on most cars. IF the flash guns's circuitry is 'leaky' then some of that high energy flash power which may be anything from 1,000 volts to 4,000 Volts, MAY find it's way to the camera. Leaks can come from old diodes which can leak back some of the current they are switching, from bridging of tracks on the circuit board or resistors gone bad, any number of causes. As I have said already, to me it isn't worth the risk. The only way you can measure it properly is with an oscilloscope by an experienced electronics engineer, which isn't worth the trouble. A couple of links to explanations. http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/camera-flash3.htm http://caves.org.uk/flash/isolator/60_21.isolator.pdf There are many others; Google. I would have replied properly yesterday but when I tried to research my reply I had great difficulty remaining online because my new router appears faulty. Now using backup. I don't wish to appear a killjoy, simply don't wish you to kill your camera by using these vintage flashguns connected directly to the camera. I am all for using vintage equipment, lenses, cameras, bellows I use a lot of old gear but not vintage flash connected directly to the camera. Especially when there is a workaround. As it says on the website... Your call.
____________________ Robert. |
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2012 05:17 |
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9th Post |
richw
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Fire it off camera using the built in flash as a trigger. The light is more flattering for portraits this way, the Vivitar can do all the heavy lifting with maybe jut a little catchlight from the on camera flash turned down low. Or by a pocket wizard set as a trigger: http://www.pocketwizard.com/ You can pick older models up on e-bay now and there are budget versions.
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| Posted: Fri Jun 29th, 2012 12:55 |
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10th Post |
Doug
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I agree with Robert. Radio triggers are versatile and can be purchased for under $100, so why wouldn't you use one of these rather than risk damage to your DSLR Having said that, this slightly more expensive model is a good choice. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/685034-REG/Impact_POWERSYNC16D_PowerSync16_DC_Radio_Slave.html
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